chay-chay-chay-changes
photos + food tales from the road to Hue, Khe Sanh & the Lao Bao border
Just over a week ago, I was off on an excursion from what’s become my “normal” life.
Yeah, yeah, inside of what many others would consider an excursion from a “normal life”. Let’s quote both of those terms. So many stories and sweeping global/personal considerations for another day.
The goal for this journey was a determined, and rather frugal, DIY border run to Laos - which is something I have to do to stay here. Uh, because, where else would I go? Added bonus: reuniting with a dear friend who’d been on the road, and slowly getting out of the city for a spell, as one may do for peace of mind and some adventure, to boot. Woo, woo.
The journey: Da Nang → Hue → Thác Anor → Khe Sanh → Hue → Da Nang
First, my travel companion and I headed north to Hue for two nights. To patiently stroll & admire the historic imperial city from the Nguyen dynasty, and enjoy some of the region’s renowned, royal-influenced cuisine. Have you been?
Then, it was west into the A Luoi mountains to Thành phố Huế, where I took many, many deep breaths to keep my calm as I climbed over rocks to visit Thác Anor, aka Anor Waterfall. The first of two admittedly, intimidating, waterfall perusals (and a hot spring/river dip) of the week! Pushing on.
Fortunately, I was well-fueled at this point by the most intensely, flavor-packed “cơm chay” rice plate I’ve had these six plus months in Central Vietnam, from a local Quan Chay eatery that was definitely not on “Google maps”. It was a one-woman show recommended by the cafe worker where we had stopped for coffee on the way into town.
My dear road trip companion - btw, who’s not veg, though is open - and I were both seriously taken with each bite. Layers of textures, seasoning, aromatics, vegetables, satisfaction, and intrinsic heat. We both tend to add chili paste or fresh chiles to our food here, and there were bottles of house-pickled chiles and more spice on tables - yet - there was no need. It was a generous cơm chay of incredible curiosity, which is saying a lot. What…is this? What is that? Hearts of palm? Tofu? Soy stuff? Mushrooms? Jackfruit!? Whatever it all was, it was vegetarian, and it was GOOD. And oooo, to those thinly sliced cukes, too.
I’m still thinking about it.
I’ve had two other cơm chays/rice plates since returning, and yeah, they were both good, though wow, there is NO comparison. I’m talking about what’s translated as the “economic” rice plate here! So good.
This gets me thinking about what mountain food can be, what the people who know their land can intimately cook up, and the contrast with this particular Thành phố Huế chay eatery vs. the other non-native dinner tables I’d been invited to over the years in the mountain states of Alaska and Wyoming. Where, granted, the winters are long and aromatics may come from jars and freezers most of the year, or fresh from IMO, bland Aerogardens. And huh, what I pulled off, reaching for a frosted inventory of pesto and Thai curry, living that cold storage life.
And this plate was instantly even more memorable/one-for-the-books a mere 24 hours later, when we learned that the sole chay spot for our final three days in Khe Sanh was MIA. No sign, no word - not shut down, just, shut. More on averting that non-food-crisis in a moment.
All this pondering on what & where to eat brings me back to vegetarian food in Vietnam. Let me dial it back to some basics for y’all.
It’s referred to as “chay”, and here in Da Nang, there are countless vegetarian eateries of varying sizes all across the city. Likewise across the country.
As someone who’s been vegetarian for over three decades and vegan for another two, I do largely stick to veg-specific eateries when possible. It’s how I live, how I travel (especially if I’m by myself) and here in SE Asia, it’s EASY.
There’s this conception - increasingly a misconception in my experience - that it’s hard to be vegan in Vietnam.
It can be hard. It can be “restrictive”, yes. Nước chấm, aka fish sauce, is an essential part of Vietnamese cuisine and culture, yes.
But..
The more you know: Buddhism is a way of life for millions of people in Vietnam, and for many followers, that calls for adhering to a strict vegetarian diet two days of the lunar month. Often more. Hence, all the “chay” restaurants and a bigger understanding of what “vegetarian” means. Furthermore, there’s not much fresh dairy in SE Asia, which means Chay = most likely Vegan. And btw, Nước chấm chay and other sauces are all over the place.
Plus, finding vegan/vegetarian food all around the globe is perhaps, I will infer, easier than ever. So modern! There’s the internet and social media, reviews on Google Maps, Happycow listings, countless blogs, and sometimes…you can just talk to real people about what you’re looking to eat - or not eat - and simply ask around. Come on, look at the raves I’m throwing at that plate of rice above. That was found totally off the internet, thanks to my travel companion inquiring at the cafe. So, uh, authentic!
Because, from big cities to small towns, a lot of places are NOT listed on Google Maps in many parts of the world. Or, they may not be open. Or, exist anymore. Or, mysteriously (to you) moved locations. Or, if it’s a chay spot, only open as few as those one or two days a month. It happens.
That’s the happenstance of travel. And life.
That said, I was pleasantly, endearingly, and deliciously surprised with most of my meals on this journey.
I accepted that my bookmarked “veg spot” was blatantly closed. For the first time in a long time, I didn’t worry much about where and what to eat. I was focused on looking around, enjoying the experience, and the impending DIY border run. Deep breaths.
So, there in Khe Sanh, I quickly perused the internet maps for any mention of “vegetarian” (the answer? not really) and then “tofu” (more success). Okay, okay.
I then went to three “normal” restaurants without “chay” sections or mentions…said that magic word…pulled out just a little Google Translate, and had a perfectly fine time.
It was a bit of a positive, grown up doozy for a jess who’s been occasionally icked by the unmistakable funk of fish sauce in her stir-fries through the years, at SE Asian restaurants in the states, and even in Thailand from time to time. Huh. Kudos, Vietnamese Buddhists.
Back to the better-than-good food I experienced / photo time:
In almost-conclusion*, let me share 5 Food-Specific-Takeaways from this journey to Hue, Thành phố Huế and Khe Sanh:
Experiencing the interesting, smaller plates of Hue, with their considerable & oft-elaborate garnishes - a reminder of its historically, designed-to-impress (ive) royal dining origins.
Seriously, darlings, FLAVOR was delivered, particularly in the first two cities of this foray out of my current city/region.
This went far beyond the side basket of fresh herbs & greens on the side of everything “noodle-y” and my regular bowls of Mỳ Quảng in Da Nang. This was an elevation in the depth & intricacies of fla-vor. Fla-vour.
And, what were those flavors? Upon arriving in Hue, I read this piece on the complexity of its cuisine and must-try dishes, and was not let down. Caramelized lemongrass, garlic, galangal, onions, more onions, herbs, raw curls of banana blossoms, tangy fruit, and wayyyyy more chiles than I’d ever experienced in Vietnam.
Entrancing, tingly, spicy, sweet, bold, hot & consistently memorable.
Case in point is the signature dish of the city - the rich & crimson-tinged Bún bò Huế - even the chay takes can deliver !
I also had this moment of walking around Chợ Đông Ba, my eyes wide in awe of colorful produce, and many that made me pause, contemplating if I’d ever seen them before. Up Close / In Person / So, so Fresh.
Cherishing the dual Arabica & Robusta coffee scene offerings in Khe Sanh, renowned for its cooler climate and cooperative coffee bean cultivation. Highlights were stops for cà phê at Khe Sanh Coffee, Hai Coffee (where I picked up a big bag of freshly ground espresso Arabica) and the scenic Homi Coffee.
Okay, let me gently, warily proclaim: Onions - were - back.
Hi, I’m biased, as you may have heard on Sharing Kitchens Live with a gasp, I’m openly not a fan of the texture of cooked or raw onions. I know, I know, deal with it. I’ve very much been appreciating how despite going out to eat at least every other day, they don’t appear on my plates much at all in Da Nang. Ha, ha!
They’re in bases and broths, but often not a main attraction. What a relief.
Now, in Hue: From the casual to the finer dining, they were very much a part of every meal I can think of. I made it through. Because, realistically, onions are flavor, and that’s the way of Hue.
And on a more positive note for people that are open to a meal without meat - including millions of Vietnamese on a routine basis - there was that -not-so-surprise ease of eating vegan, aka chay, outside of the bigger cities.
High five, magic word.
Give me a plate of hot fried - fresh! - tofu, warm rice and steaming, garlicky, oh-so-recently-harvested greens with a bit of soy sauce & chiles ANY DAY OF THE WEEK. OF MY LIFE. <3
P.S. Bonus video driving through the largest banana market in the Quang Tri region, Chợ Tân Long in Hướng Hóa
*I kid, let’s continue talking about lemongrass & galangal and fresh tofu in the mountains of Vietnam…
Are you intrigued by the flavors of Vietnamese/Hue cuisine?
References + Relevant Links:
3 Famous Coffee-Growing Regions in Vietnam, VCU Vietnam Coffee United February 6, 2025
16 religions are recognized in Vietnam, some are little known, Vietnam.vn July 20, 2025
Explore the majestic Anor waterfall in the middle of Vietnam's Truong Son mountains, VIET READER
Hue Food: 10 Delicious Dishes You Must Try in Vietnam’s Imperial City, SAM TOUR
let’s go to the mall for green curry spaghetti these scone archives my more-glamorous visa run (although, where I ate lunch at malls, so, budget life!)
some restaurants pictured: Hoà Lành Vegan Food - Ăn chay là niềm vui, Quan Chay Moc Nhien, Quán Chay Bà Minh, Quán Lào Lệ Trần, Tịnh Tâm Vegan (not quite recommended, though convenient - stopped for take out before my bus back south), Nhà hàng chay Tĩnh (lovely!), Bún chả Hà Nội - Hậu béoooo
Vietnam cities experience a vegan surge, Vietnam+ January 29, 2017
POV you make me this 😋
Ok I finally managed to listen to it again, and it’s this
some restaurants pictured: Hoà Lành Vegan Food - Ăn chay là niềm vui, Quan Chay Moc Nhien, Quán Chay Bà Minh, Quán Lào Lệ Trần, Tịnh Tâm Vegan
Minute 10:30ish of the audio :)