dinner discussion
here's what I was cooking the most-est in 2022
Pardon this interruption of holiday-riffic leftovers & sugar overload for the following announcement, which is pertinent to those of you who appreciate reading about cooking!
Er, if that doesn’t apply to you, I have to assume you’re here for the snow and/or cats and/or potential moose sightings. I assure you I shall get to 2 out of 3 in due time today. Thank you for your encouragement on any of the above. 💕
I’ve hereby scoured the memories, notes and digital archives just shy of the previous 365 days of Dinner Diaries ™, and would like to spotlight the FIVE MEALS I kept cooking (largely without any chagrin), time and time again.
There were no spreadsheets nor algorithms nor complicated math that brings us here today.
There was my little phone camera’s uploads, a trusty meal planning/produce inventory notebook, some quick reflections with my partner, and simply the truth of what I genuinely like to cook at this point in my life…up in the middle of Alaska.
These dinners are all vegan. They’re all fairly straightforward. And they all feature their fair share of vegetables, which again, pat-pat on back, is not always the easiest thing up here.
Regardless of the season/winter-or-not-winter, I still take great joy in cooking, especially in the delight of the following five dinners in heavy rotation of 2022. Recipes + references + recommendations scattered throughout.
On-wards to this year’s Five! Staple! Dinners!
(Bear with me, I’m going with far more words than photos for a change).
✨ Dry Thai Curries(such as Pad Prik Gaeng)✨
Whether we’re talking the freshest of the fresh garden bounty or a wintery blend of root veg & cabbage, “dry curries” aka Thai curry paste stir-fries that are purposely *not* liquidy, are my go-to when I want to have a lot of vegetables on my plate.
I’ve been enamored with red curry paste since I picked up my first order of Thai takeout in Somerville, MA during my college days, and *then* I went to Pattaya for a wedding and proceeded to return to Thailand on a near annual basis for much of my 30s. Fortunately and gloriously, there is a seemingly endless amount of veg-specific eateries & dishes in Thailand (due to its history of Buddhism and cross cultural influence from China, India and elsewhere in South and East Asia), and my taste buds and mind were blown away every single day, every single meal.
One dish that stood out even at casual food court stalls and vegetarian buffets alike was an inviting pile of long beans that often had little soya bits dispersed throughout, all tossed in an irresistible, freshly pounded curry & chili paste. I couldn’t read much of the menu signage and didn’t learn this was what’s known as “pad prik gaeng” (and similarly, pad prik khing) until years later, but gosh, those flavors stuck with me. Gaeng = Curry, btw.
It all comes together thanks to fresh veg and the fiery red curry paste.
Talking premade curry paste, I prefer the family-run Thai Home line out of Portland (developed by the co-founder of Kati on SE Division, which just swept me away with FLAVOR when it first opened), or vegan-friendly pouches imported from Thailand (such as the Mae Noi brand, available in the US and Europe) and found with glee by my sister or me while shopping.
This is going to sound like a lot of details, but I swear it all comes together easy peasy. Besides a big spoonful of curry paste, you’ll need some soy sauce, preferably a Thai “thin” one, such as Healthy Boy, a spoonful of sugar - brown or coconut sugar is best here, a little neutral oil, some aromatics, julienned lime leaf - and I use frozen up here (!! what a convenience!), maybe some pan-seared or baked tofu or tempeh or soy curls or whatever protein of choice, a hot cast iron or wok, and of course, heaps of fresh veg. Traditionally, this calls for those long beans, which is probably more conveniently green beans for most of us. Cauliflower also holds up remarkably well here, and truly, whatever vegetables you *like* to stir-fry can work. Stir, stir, season, toss, and minutes later, you’re done!
Preparing your side of rice takes way longer than the actual cooking, all things considered.
Similar preparations rule just as hard with other curry pastes, such as green, sour ones, massaman and panang, any of which are also a delight with a little bonus coconut milk or cream on top when serving. Ditto for throwing in fresh herbs such as an enthusiastic amount of whatever fresh basil you’ve got, mint, and for the lovers, cilantro
Quick Recipes + References for Dry Curries:
Recipe → Phat Phrik Khing With Tofu and Long Beans (Thai Dry-Curry Stir-Fry) Recipe, Serious Eats [vegan]
“The term 'kua' refers to dry roasting in a pan or wok over low heat while constantly stirring.” - Thaitable.com
Vegan Thai Kitchen by Sarah Jansala (who’s behind those first curry pastes mentioned)
✨ Italian Pasta ✨
While I may not make as much pasta as I did a few years ago, or in my twenties for that matter, when a fire-roasted tomato sauce ruled my life for a handful of years there when I was learning to cook for myself (and got over my aversion to red sauces, which OK, I thought were blood growing up), I continue to cook pasta on the regular.
Case in point above, I was such a picky child, and penne with simply olive oil + fresh mozzarella was my favorite “real” food for far too long. Yep.
Fast forward a few decades, and I sway between red sauces: swooning those instances when fresh tomatoes enter my life again for quick roasted, sautéed or fresh affairs, or contemplating the canned (ideally!) San Marzanos for sugo all'arrabbiata or penne alla vodka that night. Switching over to green, I’ll go for fresh pesto (or the summer frozen reserves) and when in doubt, my heart and stomach reach for pasta, garlic, olive oil, some calabrian chili flakes, parsley, probably some white wine for deglazing, perhaps some fierce capers and/or olives, and ideally a generous bunch of bitter greens, cauliflower, or caramelized chicory or even cabbage.
Maybe I’ll then throw in some seared beyond sausage, definitely some grated v parm, and grab the goooooood olive oil to finish.
Bonus points for never really needing a recipe (nessuna ricetta! grazie, duolingo), just al dente pasta, quality ingredients, some of that starchy cooking water – and you’ve got dinner.
Quick Recipes + References for Pasta-Making:
Best Pasta Sauces by Micol Negrin
How to Cook Pasta like an Italian, Italy Magazine December 18, 2019
Recipe → Pasta con broccoli leaves (from the subarctic garden), ‘21 archives
✨ Heyyyy, Lentil Soup ✨
Hi. Indeed, I live in the subarctic. It was -30(f) below zero last week. I aim to be transparent about what our winter vegetable situation is, what we keep on hand, and how long we may go between grocery runs. I’m quite fond of my 6 quart dutch oven pot, there’s usually a loaf of bread around here, and I keep a growing bag of veggie scraps in the freezer. Therefore, I make a big pot of soup at least once a month.
That soup is more often than not of the lentil variety, whether they’re red, brown, black, green, or a mix of any of the above. I tend to make it up as I go each time, roughly following lessons & spice blends learned in past cookbooks.
I’ll throw in all or any of the following: some sliced or chopped celery, carrots, cabbage, greens, potatoes, garlic (minced or roasted & smashed), tomato (paste, that is), bay leaves, hot chiles when I’m feeling it, quinoa, rice, barley…and whatever spice combination I’m vibing with that day.
After sautéing the aromatics, there’s surely some deglazing with that homemade stock or water or wine or even an open can of beer, followed by the requisite stewing away (er, soupin’ ?) of the actual broth with the fateful shade of lentils, veg, and later on, a handful of minced parsley or a shard of frozen pistou, and rounding it all out with salt, pepper, most likely fresh lemon or lime, maybe some vinegar-y hot sauce, and ultimately, dippin’ in some crusty bread after it all comes together.
My go-to spices in lentil soups are cumin, paprika, coriander, thyme and two existing blends: North African harissa (as a spice mix or paste) and this lovely Yemeni Hawaij.
Soup Recipes → → →
Egyptian Lentil Soup (Shorbet Ads) recipe, Food Dolls ~ great with any color lentils, btw, and add a pinch of coriander, too
Lotsa Veggie Lentil Soup from Appetite for Reduction by Isa Chandra Moskowitz ~ so versatile!
And this simple yet excellent Syrian-Style Red Lentil Soup from Bean by Bean by Crescent Dragonwagon
✨ Tacos!✨
This really was the year I started making tortillas and enjoying way more tacos - surprisingly even more so than the epic year we threw VVCIII (2013) in Austin with all those beautiful breakfast (and dinner, and lunch!) tacos. Shocking development.
The premade tortilla situation is creepy at best up here, and after a lot of tasty practice, I now feel A-OK with making them at home. This week alone I made both blue and yellow corn tortillas and huaraches! Whoa.
My favorite filling is something spicy & saucey & stewed such as soy curls or chickwheat or mushrooms or chorizo de soya, the goodness of beans, or something crunchy & coated such as this week’s fusion-y furikake tempeh (inspired by Hetty McKinnon’s recent tofu recipe).
No matter what, tacos in our house call for legit hot sauce, perhaps a piquant aioli, and a big side of shredded cabbage or colorful slaw with fresh lime or otherwise tangy dressing, ‘cause, we need our veg.
Admittedly & controversially, I may avoid cilantro unless it’s melded into some fresh salsa or Indian cuisine, but I know I’ve come a long, loooong way from the measly Taco Bell lettuce & cheese-filled hard tacos (“no meat!”) of my youth. Sheesh.
(Although I have to say that Del Taco’s more semi-recent vegan offerings are fun stuff).
See also: daydreaming of avocado….what dreams may come ! !
Taco Links + Recipes:
Recipe → Chickwheat Shreds recipe, Avocados and Ales
Recipes → Mexican Made Meatless’ recipe archives, including frijoles refritos, beans-from-scratch, birria tacos, gorditas, tamales & tons more
Taco Bell’s own ‘How to Eat Vegan’ menu guide ~ Let me tell you how sadly expected (and gross) it was when my “no meat” tacos at TB would have the meat just scraped out of the shell in our family’s orders! Okay, this was in the 90s in suburan NY and that’s not to say this may not still occur, but the fact that they even use the word “vegan” now, let alone have this guide is sorta wild. Sorta.
#ppk4eva: The Taco Cleanse cookbook by Wes Allison, Stephanie Bogdanich, Molly R. Frisinger and Jessica Morris
✨Last,But Way Not Least…Thai Rice Noodles✨
(Pad Kee Mao, Pad See Ew, Pad Thai & Curry Noodles)
Rain or shine or snow, it makes sense that another take on transportive, action-packed (with heat & flavor, that is) Thai food would make another appearance in this list.
Thanks to those fortunate visits to Thailand & the mindblowingly fantastic food & cooking classes & market visits & culinary advice that went with it all, I’ve since learned to seek out the “right” ingredients for attempting to recreate my own noodles and stir-fries at home.
Granted, the access and variety to imported & fragrant fresh ingredients alike is understandably better in the (lower) NW and NYC. I mean, I could pick up freshly made rice noodles and tofu! And gai lan and bird’s eye chiles! In a bike basket!
Although rest assured, I can still get my hands on most specialty sauces, lemongrass, Thai basil, galangal and other precious items when they’re in stock at a couple of, it bears repeating: UTTERLY precious, family-run Asian markets up in Fairbanks.
As for the noodles specifics, I freaking love hot & spicy pad kee mao and if I have any fresh basil on hand, I’m making it. If not, I’m opting for pad see ew with its addictive sweet soy sauce. If I’m feeling flush with tofu (it happens) and crave peanuts, I’m going for pad thai. Very occasionally, I’ll even sprout mung beans to really go all the way. And basil or no basil, coconut milk or pass, a spin on curry noodles (riffin’ on stateside Thai takeout/Pad Mama/Singapore noodles) with any paste I’m feeling with a little extra curry powder & plenty of veg is an easy & vibrant dinner hit, if I do say so myself. And I totally will.
Finally, Thai Noodle Recipes + References:
Recommended sauces to keep in your fridge/pantry, thin soy sauce, sweet soy sauce, mushroom soy sauce, “seasoning sauce”, mushroom oyster sauce (avoid the Kikkiman one, it’s not good), vegetarian stir-fry sauce, apple cider vinegar or perhaps, vegetarian fish sauce (nước chấm chay - you can also make it).
Plus, check out this Thai Soy Sauce Primer on Messy Vegan Cook
Some tips on making non-vegan recipes v-e-g-a-n: Skip the fish sauce and start with quick splash of apple cider vinegar and/or a squeeze of lime for that funky tang, opt for mushroom oyster sauce (I tend to buy ones from Taiwan or Vietnam), sub miso for shrimp paste (especially in curry pastes), and read ingredients on everything bottled.
Alaskan stores I like to visit for SE Asian ingredients: Oriental Market and the Asian Food Market in Fairbanks, Red Apple Market in Anchorage, Save-U-More in Soldotna, and I haven’t been yet but spotted the new-to-me AK Asian Market off the Parks Hwy in Wasilla this past fall.
Fun fact: Fairbanks is considered the “Thai food capital of the world” - well, let’s make that in Alaska. That’s still really saying something in such a remote locale. Thai restaurants flourish in Fairbanks Anchorage Daily News July 21, 2014
Thai Cookbooks I enjoy these days: May Kaidee’s Thai Cookbook, Vegan Thai Kitchen by Sarah Jansala, Hot Thai Kitchen by Pailin Chongchitnant (whose titular website has a veg recipe section, too), 101 Thai Dishes You Need to Cook Before You Die by Jet Tila (there’s a vegan section!), Simple Thai Food by Leela Punyaratabandhu and Nong’s Thai Kitchen by Nongkran Daks
Recipe → Jet Tila’s Vegan Drunken Noodles
Here’s to finally deciding on a new wok by the time I talk about stir-fying again!!
In Conclusion…
Thanks for reading about my favorite types of meals to cook in 2022! Perhaps one of these will inspire you to try something new – or insist that I do! : )
So! What were *your* go-to dinners of the year?
I need to start doing this dry Thai curry thing, sounds amazing!
Happy New Year, Jess! Thanks for all you do here! 💫