goooood gooooood eats 💫 da nang
sharing my faux must-eat list of recent noodles & other tasty delights
Lately, I’ve been thinking…..Am I a noodle? Does that symbolize where I’m at in life? Just how many bowls full of bún, mì, bánh cuốn, miến and nui do I average a week? Do we become what we eat? Do the noodle-lovers come to identity with the thick, thin, swirls, twirls and slurps?
I don’t have the answers. I’m not counting. Howev, I’m in Vietnam, and I am totally ordering noodles for most meals. I’m here!!
Spoilers/wild card: the following bowl of noodles is not on my not-so-hyped list to follow, and yet, look at how good it looks/was! : )
The point today:
In somewhat order of appearance into my life, I’m preparing to share 15 (ish) of my top eats of recent memory. Noodles & co from the past 2-3 months.
Let me clarify.
Let me out-right PLEAD with the reader to note:
This is so NOT a “best eats of Da Nang” list.
That’s not me. That was, long ago, in my earlier Portland years - see the final print edition of Herbivore Magazine: The Travel Issue for proof from gosh, 2010? The “Stumptown Vegans’” restaurant reviews main stage debut, so to speak. History, at least, to early 2000s Portland/vegan/food/magazine readers/bloggers/internet users. What an era behind us all.
I mean, I know at least one person reading will remember those days, and well, I do.
Anyway, these lists I’m talking about are so, so subjective, and so, so, soooo subject to constant change.
Look, I recognize that they’re practical + helpful to travelers and curious/overwhelmed diners.
Perhaps more back then, before the plethora of guides & socials. Personally, I’ll read the ones accumulated by serious & un-serious eaters alike for a regional paper’s annual guide. It just feels like most of the time, these lists are so flippant and fleeting, especially when they’re on socials/youtube. Cliche and rarely full of surprises.
That’s what I’m looking for - ideally, the “surprises” - the off-the-beaten-path that’s not labeled as such on any list. And that small scale, tiny chair ‘culinary adventure’ is still possible here in Vietnam!
More rants + raves on those lists…
When in comes to “best-of” lists, here’s what’s SO subjective: budgets, tastebuds, allergens, that day’s logistics, timing, weather, seasonality, staffing, whims, moods, personal backgrounds, quirks, cravings, and omg - the reality that countless “best of”-esque lists are written by whatever “influencers” are these days - who may be in town for a few mere days. What they’re sharing on insta/tiktok/the internet is okay, the best stuff they’ve sought out that’s quite possibly already on a “best of” list/highly-rated somewhere/and hey, was it in a main tourist area and frequented by westerners? Did the restaurant hook them up at all? Hmmm, factors! Booooring.
So! About WHAT & WHY I’m sharing-is-caring today from Team Noodles…
Hi. These are…personal. I’m jess.
I like saucey & salty & spicy & umami-overload.
I default to noodles.
I hold a lifelong dislike of onions. I recently outed this particular factoid from the depths of my soul to friends when a bowl of Bún bò Nam Bộ at Thìa Gỗ was ⅕ large pieces of cooked white onions. Yuck. That rarely happens here, especially at vegetarian places. I survived!
Moving on, ‘cause that’s my own textural issue, and a big reason of how/why I learned to cook for myself. Again, personal history here. I’m also getting WAY better with coriander - and dare I say - it’s a bit milder here. I’m eating it and not picking it out. It’s A-OK.
I’m…frugal. I eat local. I’m typially going to lunch every other day and paying $1 USD or less for my meal.
I’m cooking at home multiple times a week with the freshest market produce I’ve had access to in yearsssss. And that one doesn’t really “help” my budget, though it doesn’t exactly hurt it. It simply feels good & tastes good to cook.
Ba da bum
I must admit, on the topic of vegan/vegetarian eateries in Da Nang/SE Asia….
I am largely disappointed by most “nicer” western-encouraging vegan spots with chia pancakes and smoothie bowls and the like. There are rare exceptions. Rare - ‘cause I can share that a kale salad sitting on top on pink beet hummus did pass muster at Roots this past week. Fine! : )
Otherwise, I’m irked by both the oft-annoyance of fellow diners, their conversations and as someone who likes to cook/has been around: the food itself. Sad face. I’m in Vietnam, not Portland or Brooklyn. I want those noodles. I want to eat in Vietnam. I don’t want bland and underwhelming for at least 3-4x the price of everywhere else I go. I’m not naming names. I’ve tried a few, and only one mentioned above I’d return to. Sheesh.
I’m much more content in one of seemingly hundreds of smaller chay [aka vegetarian] spots all across the city, where I’m often the only non-Vietnamese person in the place. Where the menu may need the google translate camera. Where foreigners are (usually!!) not paying more than locals, and the prices are printed on the menu. Where there’s a big sign outside with the featured dish that’s been there for years. Okay, that last one is a little less common for chay spots, though can be found. Oh, I’m ever on the look-out.
I go to so many of these neighborhood chay spots, I’ve lost count.
It’s a pastime. It’s lunch.
Every other day, often new-to-me, perhaps in a neighborhood I don’t spend much time in / had yet to wander around. The time comes ‘round.
This chay-exploration is easily one of the most culturally immersive & intriguing & affordable habits I’ve ever had.
And then, I get to reflect & write & share about it, whether it’s eventually here, on reddit, happycow, the current PPK (iykyk) or the Da Nang vegan whatsapp group I’m casually yet enthusiastically active in.
These fifteen (ish) “highlights” came from a mix of time / place / intrigue / appetite and so on, and the true happenstance of the eatery being open that day, or even at that time, or not, which would send me to another, to see how that goes.
For the record, for every one of these, there were likely 1-2 others that I’d tried that week that did *not* make the cut.
Oh, snap.
Now sharing jess’ GOOD GOOD Eats + Drinks in Da Nang. Nowadays!
To the notebook! Pertinent links at the bottom.
Cacao Tươ Sữa Dừa / Coconut Milk Fresh Cocoa 💫 HeyDay Cacao
What a special evening delight at this Vietnamese-sourced chocolate shoppe: creamy coconut cream, rich dark cocoa, bonus shot of espresso. Mocha madness/goodness.
Bánh xèo aka Vietnamese “pancake” + Mì Quảng aka the regional brothy peanut/turmeric/herby noodle dish 💫 Quán chay Thiện Duyên
This classic chay spot is a new one in my life, and upon even seeing the super crispy (yet, not that greasy! woohoo!) generous bánh xèo, fresh fillings and rice paper arrive at my table, I was content, which only solidified as I savored the filling, savory meal, calm atmosphere. A few days later, I pointedly met a friend there for the best rendition of veggie Mì Quảng I’ve tried thus far. And as “the” signature noodle dish of the region, I’ve been eating this A LOT (and new ones since this visit!). A third visit only continued the delicious standards - and it was on a busyyyy vegetarian day, where Vietnamese Buddhists eat vegetarian on certain days of the month/lunar calendar & special holidays.
It’s only been a few days since that lunch and I’m already thinking of going back to try more.
Hủ tiếu 💫 Ẩm Thực Chay Hạnh Thiện
Mhmm, a warming bowl of gently savory broth that was almost refreshing thanks to all the fresh mint on top. Spoon, chopsticks, good good bowl, quiet dinner. A friend and I walked into this chay restaurant up in Son Tra after a sunset visit to Lady Buddha (my first) that appeared to be closing early for the night, and yet, were ushered to a table by the proprietress, instructed “soup”, and that was that. This was a new-to-me dish in Da Nang: Hủ tiếu is typically served for breakfast - as is pho - for the record - and has its origins with the Teochew diaspora, originally from China - and a related version is served in Cambodia, known as ‘Phnom Penh noodle soup’, that I’ve surreal-y enjoyed both in the capital city and in Portland. I’ll end where I started: Mhmm.
Cue Coffee Break…
Orange Americano 💫 Login Coffee
Hands down / hands up / hands on this pint of fresh orange juice / espresso / water / ice. Easily the best orange americano I’ve had in Da Nang - where there are juicy, green-skinned oranges (aka “cam”) at every market. I drank this regularly in Chiang Mai and none had really hit the spot yet until this one (followed by one at Vậtthể). It’s almost a non-negotiable to see the contrast of colors. Regardless, when it’s good, it’s a lovely, refreshing, almost chocolate-y combo.
Cà Phê Cốt Dừa [Vegan] Coconut Coffee 💫 Coffee HƯỚNG Quáng
This cafe was the first one I tried I felt simply…comfortable in. The woman who runs it is super nice. We bond with bits of English and telling each other life updates on google translate. She’s seen me through my accident-recovery period and other life drama, and is clearly so happy I’ve been coming in with actual friends in more recent time ! Shucks. The cafe is one of a few that offers a blended coconut coffee without dairy/condensed milk and is STILL really good - and not twice the price of a “normal” one. There’s also top notch coconut matcha, vegan Saigon coffee (and all the standard Vietnamese cà phês!), smoothie bowls, juice and glass mugs of house tea. Plus, it’s around the corner from my favorite bánh mì chay stand.
Met Lá Lốt Cuốn Nam Bánh Hỏi 💫 Nhà Hàng Chay Ngọc Chi [Michelin]
I went out with a new friend just last week for a lovely, colorful dinner at this Michelin-guide restaurant, and this was the most memorable, intriguing dish - persimmon rolled lolot leaves (similar, though less intense than betel leaves) served with banh hoi, aka bundles of tender vermicelli. Intriguing and fun to roll up and confidently/and/or/awkwardly bite into.
Cao lầu Hội An Chay aka Hội An -style noodle bowl + Bun Chay aka mixed vermicelli noodles 💫 Quán chay xinh
This sweet little spot, operated on the garden patio outside a family’s home tucked above the main An Thuong scene, has quickly become another east/ocean-side favorite. Everything I’ve tried has been flavorful, interesting and great - with the chewy, saucy Cao lầu noodles packed with tasty tofu & greens & crunchy bean sprouts, a very recent personal rave during a dinner with friends. Look at me typing that!
Bonus points for long hours and the mom/proprietress proudly sharing that her daughter is a graphic designer who put together the menu : )
Marinara Pie 💫 Bravo Pizzeria
Let the record state that this was my third pizza going on 8 months, and as a native New Yorker, that is saying *something* - with a buried yet heavy Brooklyn accent. There was a good chew with a wood-fired thin crust, the bit of char, housemade pepper-y chili oil, and the simplicity of quality San Marzano tomatoes, actual Italian basil leaves, salt, and sliced garlic. My siblings would approve. At least one of them. Leaps & bounds better than the other “wood-fired” pizza from the Mexican Italian pizza place I tried some months back.
Bánh xèo 💫 Chay Corner
Dudes, darlings, everyone - I’m grateful to have this vegetarian restaurant a block away from where I live. I’ve now ordered this three times, in addition to many other meals of lots & lots of tender, housemade dumplings & Vietnamese salads & noodles & tofu & more. The scissor acton is a delight in of itself, and this was the first place I was offered one. No lie, I’m something of a mess every time I eat bánh xèo, and go through A LOT of napkins.
No regrets. I even have a punch card here - my second of this extended, curious hiatus.
Cà Phê Bơ aka Avocado Coffee 💫 TingTing Fresh Fruits Juice
Uh, note to self & y’all, I’m averaging one of these a week at this juice shop/cafe. It’s a regional, curiously refreshing, creamy coffee delight. I go with all coconut milk + water vs. fresh dairy milk (which is boxed anyway, mind you), purposely skip the condensed milk, and opt for little or no sugar. It’s essentially an avocado smoothie (with locally grown avocados, aka the “bơ”), freshly brewed Robusta coffee from a traditional cà phê phin , and hey, don’t trust me - trust the Vietnamese, their great Robusta, and topped with crunchy, slightly sweet, toasted coconut chips. It’s served with a straw and a spoon, and that makes delicious, dig-in sense.
Grand finale!
Bún cân nư ớng trộn aka dry mixed noodles + Mì quảng chay aka the regional turmeric/peanut/herb brothy noodles 💫 Tâm Nguyên Phúc Vegetarian Restaurant
Ah, and this one is my favorite little chay spot on the east/ocean-side of the city. Every single dish I’ve had has been soooo good, well-sauced, well-balanced, flavorful, and super accessibly-priced at the local rate of 25k-30k per dish. It’s family-run, welcoming, fast, fresh and always hits the spot. These 2 dishes and the rice plate with pumpkin are my go-to’s. This spot is my go-to!
I could eat here every other day. Okay, I might.
Pssst…Bonus Rounds in Hoi An + Dessert / Oh, So, Honorable Mentions:
Peanut Eggplant + Garlic Broken Rice 💫 Minh Hien Vegetarian Restaurant - the Hoi An
Creamy eggplant and crunchy peanuts with a sauce that’s just salty enough and on-target in the best way. The spicy garlic rice is bite after bite of yum. I remembered it fondly from my first visit, and made sure to order again on this second trip down to Hoi An.
Kem Bơ Bé aka Coconut Ice Cream w/ creamy avocado purée 💫 Kem bơ Bé Huệ
If there’s one dessert I cherish in Da Nang besides gosh, all the fascinating fruit within reach, it’s this. I LOVE coconut, I CHERISH gooooood coconut ice cream, and I adore a good avocado. Note that coconut ice cream is not a given to be dairy-free in Vietnam. It was way more common in Thailand. Sweetened condensed milk is a way of life here. This small family-run shop sticks to coconut cream and a water base for the avocado purée. And goodness gracious, it’s 30k dong for a medium. What a TREAT.
By the way - between us - I’m touched - just this past week, on seeing where & what we’re eating, more than one new friend has remarked that I should give vegan food tours. Write a guide. I’m flattered, and it takes me back. To the stuff referenced above. That time Native Foods booked me to host a vegan tour for contest winners from the top of a tour bus. Uh, so many other anecdotes/typed words/podcasts/memories/life.
All in all, I am certainly experiencing local food and taking notes, even if it’s mostly in my notebook.
(Naturally, my sister says it’s a no-brainer and has pushed/encouraged me to make a new insta of local eats, since I’ve taken to posting more city scenes & home cooking on @scone.archives these days. More on this all in due time! I’m not young!)
My habit of trying out more & more & more local chay spots continues, and now includes taking folks to spots others may find intimidating with something resembling ease.
Consider it my increasing nonchalance + genuine interest to sit down with an ongoing series of Mì Quảng, Bánh Xèo and whatever the dry house “Bún” is (among others) at seemingly hundreds of vegetarian Vietnamese eateries across the city. The acceptance/open interest/frequent note of usually being the only ‘foreigner’ in a place. They’ve seen it before. Or, on occasion, especially the ‘further’ I go. It’s 2025.
Even if there’s not much or any English spoken, I can make do.
Having my go-to dishes where I can get names across - or gently specifying on the printed menu or wall signage - and being open to whatever might be the only dish offered that day. It’s chay. I’m down.
And the heart-warming experience of being encouraged to come back soon.
Oh, cảm ơn. : )
[aka thank you in Vietnamese]
What would *You* want to try on this list?
References + Relevant Links:
12 Vietnamese Types of Noodles to Try, Lacadamie
Minh Hien Vegetarian Restaurant - the Hoi An bonus listing, on happycow
Nhà Hàng Chay Ngọc Chi - Vegetarian Restaurant in the Michelin Guide
observing menu changes + getting to a point, these scone archives April 23, 2025
What a transcending delicious journey! Love it!!! I raise my Coffee cup( pretending it to be one of the Avocado drinks you savor on the regular)!!
This post is so delicious, Jess! I want orange coffee and avocado drinks! xx