out to lunch
a look at lunches while out & about in da nang, vietnam
Did you go anywhere special for lunch this past week?
Do you have a go-to spot for a meal that just makes your day better?
A cozy booth that transports you (literally?) to the diners of years past? A bold food truck that brings a smile to your face…and something hot & crave-worthy to walk away with…or bring to the closest picnic table?
Wait, what’s the weather like where you live lately? Is it picnic or fireplace time?
Here in central Vietnam, while the end-of-year holiday decorations are appearing, we’ve returned to an almost-shocking, sunny spell.
I write this missive from the potentially final few weeks of the infamous rainy/monsoon/typhoon season. Question…marked. It went later last year - well past December/global warming/weather fluctuates/nothing new on this planet - and into very early March, which is back when I first arrived to the city. Huh, what a curious, unexpected & emboldening past year it has been.
On a personal level (hi!), this past week has seen storms, work deadlines, ceaseless apartment hunting, the usual contemplation of life/finances/life, volunteering, and the active catharsis of pickleball and catching up with friends (both on & off the court).
I go out to lunch. Every other day? Sometimes, every day! It seems ridiculous, yet true.
I go out to lunch for curiosity, hunger, immersion and ease. I eat noodles. I eat rice. And on rare occasions, as you’ll see soon, I revisit my Italian American roots.
Much to my occasional chagrin / delight / intrigue, it’s technically more affordable & convenient to eat out vs. cooking where I live. For all walks of life and budgets.
Isn’t it interesting that I feel the need to justify these mealtime excursions, from my internalized Western standards and budget awareness? And yet, it’s so normal here.
Many, many, many locals, ex-pats and certainly tourists (who on vacation in a foodie city, of course!) alike rarely cook. For sure, Vietnamese people and others cook. I cook. This is nothing new. The fresh markets and grocery stores are busy places. I love to cook, I love to peruse produce and markets, and I love to make dishes that I definitely don’t order out. Plates of nostalgia and nourishment.
More on that topic another day, another missive. It’s lunch time, again.
Let’s circle back to today’s subject matter.
Sharing this past week-ish. In Lunches.
Facts: I was openly on a tighter budget in recent months. Local Vietnamese chay (vegetarian) food is delicious. I get to try new-to-me places, and explore different areas.
It makes sense.
These are meals I enjoyed while out & about in Da Nang the past week-ish.
Overall positive experiences. Photos, locations + brief dining anecdotes follow.
1) Mì Quảng at my very (very, very) favorite “across the river” Quan Chay eatery w/ tons of greens + herbs buried under the soft noodles, crispy soy stuff & chili jam.
These noodles are the signature dish of the region and served either with a small portion of broth, or as dry noodles. Everything I’ve ordered here has made me so content.
Ah, one day/ one night / one chill afternoon to come, I’ll write far more about MQ for the chay corner series. <3
Location: Quán chay Thiện Duyên 🔪 🔪 🔪 Cost: 25,000 VND / approximately $0.95 USD
2) Mì Quảng Round 2 of that week at (yet) another spot that is both perpetually satisfying and endearing to me. My friends and I fondly call it ‘quan chay hot dog’, as there’s typically locally made veggie hot dog slices on their daily rice plate.
This location’s Mì Quảng includes some cubed orange squash/pumpkin, which the eatery also prepares as a signature prepared side that I recommend you add-on to your rice plate if you ever opt for it. Because, if you are veg-curious, squash-inclined and ever in this city, you should come here and follow these instructions. It’s not even a question.
Bonus: The friendly proprietress has now made a practice of adding a fried spring roll to noodle bowls in recent months. Can’t complain. Look, she told me she loved me on my last visit. Naturally, I said it back.
Clearly, I rationally and fulfillingly average a bowl of this goodness a week. : )
Location: Tâm Nguyên Phúc Vegetarian Restaurant 🔪 🔪 🔪 Cost: 30k VND [25k + spring roll] / approximately $1.14 USD
3) Family meal / shared lunch hour of Heo Quay Mè (grilled vegan ‘pork’ = SO good), mixed rice, braised eggplant with ginger & margarine and Nem Lụi (Hue-style grilled lemongrass ‘pork’ skewers that you wrap in rice papers with herbs & more good stuff).
This is a dear friend’s favorite “cityside” eatery. I find it so genuinely interesting and tasty to learn & sample what my pals with far more experience with Vietnamese cuisine like to order. This restaurant’s pork and eggplant dishes seriously bring a smile to her face, and I now totally get why. 💚
Location: Nhà Hàng Chay Hương Sen 🔪 Cost: ‘twas a reasonable price, split between 3 diners
4) Bánh Xèo Hi there. If you haven’t heard, I’m on a casual journey of seeking out the next great bánh xèo chay aka the ‘sizzling’ Vietnamese pancake. Consider it my own little reality show. A lunchtime side project. A spinoff. Theme song in development.
This one is from a mainstay vegetarian eatery/rice plate-centric afternoon spot on Đỗ Bá, off of Vĩnh Tế. It’s available in the afternoons only, and my timing was right that day. I totally give points for crisp factor and a very nice, warned-as-spicy dipping sauce. For those unfamiliar, you roll the yellow pancake pieces up in the rice paper, again with assorted herbs, shredded veg, tart green mango, sliced cucumber, and lettuce.
That said, the search carries on, as I wanted more filling besides bean sprouts and a bit of mushrooms. D’oh. It’s cool, that’s life. That’s lunch.
I have a sole contender for the “great-est” so far, and I sincerely intend to add to this list.
Location: Phuoc Duyen Vegan Restaurant 🔪 🔪 🔪 Cost: 48k VND for 4 pieces / $1.82 USD
5) Oooo, time for a quick rainstorm-run + apartment viewing no-show relief in the form of a Bánh Mì Chay from the stand by Chợ Bắc Mỹ An [market]. It’s open until noon, this was my second ‘bread’ (the sandwich) from here. It’s really growing on me.
A rather good Crunch with a capital C, good chili sauce and good fresh herbs, no doubt from the market just around the corner. I took this one home to enjoy dry in my little temporary abode, away from the downfall. Phew.
Location: Bánh Mỳ Chay 🔪 🔪 🔪 Cost: 15k VND / $0.57 USD6)
6) Cơm Thập Cẩm - Another day, another rice plate - this one a first visit to quite a well-known/infamous “franchise” and association - Loving Hut/Supreme Master.
Have you ever been? If you’re veggie-curious and like to travel, the odds increase.
I have fond memories of visiting the Seattle location on S Jackson for appetizing, glazed seitan-topped vermicelli bowls, which 1) offered a vegetarian Vietnamese menu, how topical and 2) I fact-checked, has since shuttered. It happens.
Well, I’m now in Vietnam itself, and after (another) uninspired rental perusal nearby this location in ‘southern’ Khuê Mỹ, popped in for a rice plate.
On the plus side, this one gets a nod for all the greens, interesting variety, generosity and the long-time quan chay/Loving Hut + TV-on vibe. On the other side of things, the rice was not quite warm or cooked all the way? So, that’s of note. I shan’t complain for the price. It would be silly. Come on, it was a cultural experience and fuel for my body.
I shall simply, move on with my day, try another of the seemingly endless list of Quan Chays around town next time, and tell y’all this unofficial soft “review”. Between us.
Location: Quán Cơm Chay Biển Tình Thương aka Loving Hut Da Nang 🔪 🔪 🔪 Cost: 20k VND / $0.76 USD
7) Marinara Pie! A dramatic twist for our lunch hour finale. Pizza. For dinner.
My fourth of this past year, which is truly, of note with it comes to my third-generation-New Yorker-ness. Even in SE Asia.
We’re tawking wood-fired crust, San Marzanos (iykyk), fresh Italian basil (!!), oregano, sliced garlic, extra virgin olive oil and a house chili oil that is groovily ‘peppery’ in such a good, hot way.
Let the record state: I am a longtime vegan who prefers cheeseless and thin crust.
It was my second visit to this particular pizzeria on An Thượng 24. Noticeably a splurge, if you’ve become familiar with me at all ! Price below.
Eating pizza. Reflecting on the day. Hanging with a chill friend. Waiting out the storm that evening. Contently, crisping up my leftovers, later, the next night <3.
See you again in a few months, old friend. I mean the pizza.
Location: Bravo Pizzeria 🔪 🔪 🔪 Cost: 110k VND for the pie / $4.17 USD
Did you go anywhere for lunch this week that made *you* smile? 😎
References + Relevant Links:
Embracing “Cơm Chay”: A Guide to Delicious Vegetarian Food in Vietnam, Street Food Explorer
More than just a vegan eatery—some call it a cult, San Francisco Examiner February 22, 2022
The Chay Corner series, so far: Cao Lầu + Cơm Chay Thập Cẩm
Eateries mentioned in this piece:
And btw, if any of these looked familiar, that means you’re perhaps…. A) part of a niche local whatsapp group OR B) came across the @travelforthefood insta that my sister shared access to OR C) a member of a somewhat obscure I mean, RETRO yet preciously active vegan discord (#PPK4eva) - AND/OR - D) uh, we’re friends here IRL in Da Nang and we probably had lunch together at least once this past week. 🧡
What a line up of beautiful food! Jess, the prices of these dishes is blowing my mind!!! It all is so fresh and healthy - and the cost is literally pennies 🤯
Loved every single photo. As someone who grew up in the Philippines, I'm much more familiar with the notion of eating out regularly, but Vietnam has us beat in terms of value, variety, and veg content for sure. Already plotting when I can come back next year! I have an immense craving for Mì Quảng that needs to be settled.