crossover episode
the chay corner goes out to lunch
Welcome back to the scone archives, where the Chay Corner spotlight series meets the ‘Out to Lunch’ episodes. Oh, baby.
‘Cause, that’s a wonderful normality in my life. I go out for lunch every other day.
The meals are humble in cost - and often humbling in experience - where I all-caps LIVE MY LIFE in Vietnam. Yeah, throw in a few more essential exclamations.
These local lunches serve as a practical + inspiring + curious + low-cost pastime.
I continue to habitually try out new-to-me eateries solo & with pals, and return to the Quán Chays* I’ve grown so, so fond of.
*Quán Chay = For those unfamilar, this is the term for the neighborhood vegetarian Vietnamese restaurants that offer the typical, economically-considerate pricing of 20-30k per order. I’ll break that down + explain more below for perspective.
Let’s catch up:
I’m writing this missive from a 476th day in SE Asia. Didn’t see that coming, even six months in. And yet…
I’m barely getting started. I’m only just getting to know the dishes + flavors I sit down to. Make that, the traditional chay/vegetarian dishes I get to order.
Specifically, the flavors + food of the south central coast of Vietnam. The city of Da Nang.
Which means….
The heaps of fresh herbs & bites of still-curious greens that accompany bowls & bowls of noodles. The salty & funky tones, the eye-opening pungent sauces, the sour vibes, all the textures and strong currents of flavor. Because - even if I’m vegan, and ditto for these meals - we’re by the sea and it’s gloriously pervasive in food and attitudes.
They’re the bowls / plates / snacks that complement the increasing temperatures, and soothe my cravings / self / stomach. Day by day.
Let’s get to the food.
Out to Lunch
Sharing Six Meals / that seriously satisfied this longtime vegan who became an unexpected ex-pat / March 2026 edition (so far)
in no particular order
💫 1 The Bánh Mì Chay cart near Bắc Mỹ An
[18k = approximately $0.68 USD]
This vegan bánh mì stand has a devout following, and I now grasp why.
In my opinion - thanks to growing experience & cognizance via my tastebuds - there is SO MUCH going on here in terms of contrasting, intriguing flavors, textures, herbs, proteins and sauces inside this one mighty sandwich. It took me a second try to ‘get it’. I wasn’t ready at first. It was just so different from the even-more-popular Bánh Mì Chay Lê Hội, which frankly, I don’t enjoy as much since I’ve since seen the light. Er, crunch.
Might I suggest the following preparation from my current lifestyle:
Spend the morning leisurely yet intensely playing pickleball.
Stop by this cart for lunch on the go. Ask for extra chili. Of course.
Relax for a few minutes as you devour said bánh mì on the Han riverfront or fine, the ocean.
Drink more water. Wipe your mouth.
Go about your day. Take a shower.
Get back to your laptop and get that work done.
💫 2 Bún Chả at Quán chạy Khai Nguyên in Hải Châu
[25,000 VND = $0.95 USD]
Bowls like this make me cherish the (winding down) rainy season even more. I already do. I enjoyed the quiet & cozy, and this brothy simplicity fits right in. Soothing, hot, noodle-y, herb-y, spoon in & in & in. Mhm.
Between us, I had a lot going on in my life that brought me to the other side of the world.
The soothing and comfortable characteristics of Vietnamese food made a difference. They still do.
💫 3 Bún Huế at Quán Chay Long Hoa in Hải Châu
[25,000 VND = $0.95 USD]
Okay, even to my newbie comprehension, this was more akin to a bún chay vs. a legit, aromatic & crimson Bún [Bò ] Huế. It’s cool, we’re not in the historic city of Hue and I’m no connoisseur in this matter.
I like brothy soups.
I liked the carrots that were dissolving into the broth.
I like(d) this spot and this bowl was the available option on the menu, as the rice for Cơm Thập Cẩm had just run out.
Indeed, I was content. This early lunch held my attention and satisfied my appetite. I would totally and intentionally order it again.
That said, I do have fond food memories of their mixed rice plate with melt-in-your-mouth eggplant & hearty pumpkin on my first visit.
My dears, I was offered even more pumpkin as it was cleared from the toppings bar. The absolute charm in that. I’m blushing just thinking about it.
💫 4 Bánh Xèo at Chay Hỷ Lạc in Khuê Mỹ
[50,000 VND = approximately $1.90 USD]
We now return to my low-key, ongoing search-for-fabulously crispy, well-stuffed, not-too-greasy Bánh Xèo. What a time in my life, to seek these out and for sure, have that price above feel like a splurge. I’m being so real.
This “sizzling Vietnamese pancake” has stayed on my mind since I tried it here with a friend a short while back. I returned, as did the shareable, culinary delights involved:
the requisite, turmeric-hued crisp that was well-stuffed with sautéed ‘shrooms & bean sprouts
a peanut dipping sauce enjoyable in flavor and consistency
more than enough rice paper, fresh greens & herbs and an extra special debut sighting of ripe! orange! mango to roll with
the top notch, spicyyyy house chili oil - I add a spoonful (well, two) to the sauce when I dip
Overall, a lovely lunch that’s worth a little mess (and that’s on….me).
Note to self + y’all: Come on, let’s go back. I just ran out of the house chili oil they sell to-go. It’s time for a round of their Cơm Đĩa. Another rave awaits.
💫 5 Bùn Cặn Nướng Trộn at Quán Chay Tâm Nguyên Phúc in Mỹ An
[30,000 VND = approximately $1.14 USD]
Hello, QC, my old friend….
This was my second visit to what my friends and I endearingly refer to as “QC Hot Dog” (iykyk) within a few days. This cooling bowl of chill vermicelli noodles + wisps of greens + savory proteins + chili jam + no-longer-optional chao hit in a way that not many meals out had in a while. Let that sentiment echo.
It’s a preferred order in the hotter months to come, and remains my most-visited vegetarian spot on the ocean-side of the city. Consistency, chill, convenience.
💫 6 Bánh Cam aka “Orange” (hence the name, for the shape) aka Sesame Ball from Dong Tien Bakery, various locations
[8,000 VND = approximately $0.30 USD]
Lately, I call my sister talking about these cute, sesame-rolled balls once a week, minimum. It’s a good snack choice.
Such appealing, notably chewy bites from the glutinous rice flour, yet, there’s also a thin crust and that snap of sesame, holding together a slightly sweet, mashed mung bean & coconut filling that wants to fall out.
Cue afternoon coffee + this doughnut-esque dessert and hey, life is swell.
You can find these at markets + vendors + bakeries throughout the city. I tried one a few days ago with black bean filling. Grab a napkin - it’s a bit greasy. No complaints. I’m overdue for one again.
What’s been Your favorite lunch order lately?
🥄 💫 🥄 💫 🥄
😉 Bonus Round: Cơm Thập Cẩm aka Mixed Rice Plate
I got a such a gratifying, tasty kick out of this pictured Cơm Thập Cẩm, at an un-named corner Quán Chay on the city-side of Da Nang. Savory jackfruit! Crispy pork belly! Greens! Fritter! Warm broth with red amaranth greens?! Pickles! Chiles! Ah, ah.
Though, consider my appearances limited. I hadn’t been for an entire calendar year. The meal, precious. The locale, under wraps. It’s better this way.
Da Nang is no secret. Howev / I can and do / keep many things to myself. ; )
That’s privacy, and cultural consideration. A bigger conversation on travel, influence and personal balance for another day.
By the Way - What’s Chay!?!
In short, chay = traditional Vietnamese vegetarian food. Chay food is Buddhist in nature - and pretty much vegan - with rare exceptions of dairy mentioned, mostly in desserts or drinks.
However, it’s much more than that in spirit and cuisine. I did a quick internet search to find a good quote to explain more. I’m amused that it took me back to the Northwest, to a Vietnamese vegetarian restaurant outside of Seattle in Bellevue, Washington.
Ta-dah:
“Chay, pronounced “chai,” refers to vegetarian or vegan food in Vietnamese culture, often associated with Buddhist dietary practices. The philosophy behind Chay is grounded in the principles of non-violence, respect for all living beings, and spiritual purity. This approach to eating encourages people to consume plant-based foods that nourish the body and soul without causing harm.”
- via the Chay Concept website of the restaurant in Bellevue, Washington USA August 5, 2025
So, where did the restaurant personel source this information? Well, that’s not cited. That aside, I’ll gesture to the thousands of years of East Asian Mahayana Buddhism.
Personally, I’ve been vegetarian and now vegan for the majority of my life. Whoa.
And since coming to Vietnam last year, I have had VERY few issues finding fascinating food to eat. Hence, another reason I stayed after all that “stuff”.
References + Relevant Links:
A Dictionary of Buddhism, via archive.org Damien Keown, 2003
The foodz above: Chay Hỷ Lạc, Dong Tien Bakery, Quán Chay Long Hoa, Quán Chạy Khai Nguyên, Quán Chay Tâm Nguyên Phúc, and the Bánh Mì Chay cart near Bắc Mỹ An
jess’ (me! hi!) shared google map of fave local chay eats + shopping + more in da nang, vietnam = so many non-secrets
dare to durian - dream of dragonfruit, scone-y November 1, 2025
introducing the chay corner spotlight with Cao lầu aka Hội An noodles, scone-landia september 4, 2025
↪️ the instas: @scone.archives for stories & ↪️ @travelforthefood for wonky foooooood reels
Plus! I’m now active on threads as @scone.archives, which kinda sorta feels right in that twitter-gap way, tbd
Understanding the Philosophy Behind Chay in Vietnamese Cuisine, Chay Concept Restaurant in Bellevue, WA August 5, 2025
QC hot dog is tops on my list. Nigjt go there for a vvvv late lunch/early dinner today!
Wow, it all looks so great! And fresh! Endless exploration