out to lunch, again
sharing six eats + brief life updates from vietnam 🧡 🇻🇳 🧡
Welcome back to the scone archives for a second special edition lunch hour report!
Where we (uh, me, hi) answer two big questions 1) What’s jess been eating for lunch lately?! and 2) What’s the gossip? What’s her deal?! 😎
Lunch + Life
As my sister puts it: Give the people what they want. The food.
Then, that requisite smidge of personal updates.
What do I, jess, eat in Vietnam ?
Wait, what does a long-time vegan eat in central Vietnam?
Whoa, whoa, whoa: What does a curious, frugal-forward American woman eat in a major coastal city in this country?
More whoa-s: What does she eat in the very city she’ll hit a year as an ex-pat in…next month!?
It’s coming! Life is coming.
Okay, back to the first-person POV…
Indeed, after I hit one-year-in-SE-Asia on December 2nd, another awe-some anniversary for yours truly approaches in a few short weeks.
Before that, from February 14-22, I will experience my first Tết, the annual Vietnmese Lunar New Year celebration. Right after that I hit ONE YEAR here in Da Nang, Vietnam ! Check, dang, mark.
However shall I casually celebrate both of these grand occasions?
No matter what, there will be great Vietnamese food.
! ! !
I can share that lately, it feels like I’ve re-entered ‘real life’ once more.
A revitalized purpose and genuine productivity I haven’t been connected to in what feels like yearssss.
Friends, new routines, neighborhood habits and do-able work deadlines. A cute studio apartment. Full of light. It’s no longer seeming as impossible to live this ex-pat life for however much longer I want to.
Or, strange and intimidating. No longer coping, and pushing. Living, and being.
The surreal remains, in a good way.
There’s a growing familiarity, with simultaneous forward momentum.
Other neat things:
I’m cooking regularly.
I opened a Vietnamese bank account so I can receive & send money via the ease of QR code.
I’m currently cat-sitting an ORANGE and white cat.
I’m (finally!) getting some more freelance work again, and therefore, slightly less freaked out about finances than usual and much less freaked out about my emotional and mental sanity. A calm ‘woohoo’.
That said, I stick to the 25k lunchtime average for my own budget. The quality + variety continues to satisfy, and occasionally, simply astounds.
And ! there’s a top notch PPKer in town! (iykyk = #ppk4eva) Vegan foodies, activated!!
Because, through it all / almost every single day / I’m trying new-to-me neighborhood nooks, dishes & ways. All the time. My attention, held.
Look, it’s lunch-time!
Now that we’ve caught up, let’s get to the food.
Here are six stand-out eats from the past few weeks.
All typically-priced Vietnamese food. All enjoyed in various districts I spend my time in. All prices are approximate, based on the live currency conversion rate as of today, January 27, 2026.
1. Bánh Mì Chay, 18k VND [$0.68 USD]
The Bánh Mì Gossip: Most weeks, I average in one mere bánh mì sandwich. Many of my bánh mì-enthusiast friends here would say that’s not enough. It’s a fair observation.
This particular bánh mì is one that has increasingly grown on me, to the point that I really, really find myself thinking about it. I’ve seriously liked it more every time I tried it. And until last week, that was every few months. That’s something notable.
The first time someone dear brought me one, I was pretty indifferent. I ate it, and I was satisfied. No complaints. Weeks later, I tried it again. I was into it. Go another few weeks? Months? It was on my mind. I stopped by, and it was better than I remembered. On it went. Better and better.
Like many stands, this sandwich is available early in the day. It’s in Mỹ An, a neighborhood I used to live nearby and spend a lot of time in. The bánh mì itself is full of contrasting, interesting textures and flavors, fresh herbs, savory fake meats, layers of sauce/dressing, more crunch, and a bit of heat. And no surprise, I do ask for “extra chili”.
I made sure to stop by twice this past week, as my pickleball practice was moving and I wanted to honor the convenience of this post-play goodness.
Location: Bánh Mì Chay stand nearby the neighborhood market (Chợ Bắc Mỹ An) in Mỹ An, Da Nang
2. Mì Quảng Chay, 25k VND [$0.95 cents USD]
As you may have heard me mention by now, twice a month there are special lunar/chay/vegetarian days in Vietnam. This is because the majority of the population follows a certain type of Buddhism that calls for this practice.
Hence, three things happen: 1) vegetarian restaurants are quite busy 2) many open just for these particular lunar days and 3) extra “chay’ signs are displayed twice a month around neighborhoods - these declare when an eatery has gone vegetarian for the day - usually with their one particular offering - which, from what I’ve seen, usually means Mì Quảng, the signature noodles of the region. I’m now declaring my intentions of visiting these sorta “pop-up” chay day spots and switch-overs whenever feasible. The bowl here is one I recently ordered at one such switch-over in my area.
This particular traditional Mì Quảng eatery is not even on google maps. Which, is not that unusual. The lunch was an easygoing, lightly turmeric tinged & herbal bowl. A bit of crunch from the peanuts and spring roll. As many do, my dining companion reached for the fermented chao and chiles. I did the same, and it really made all the difference. It adds that something something.
Location: popular neighborhood Mì Quảng spot in Hoà Cường, Da Nang
3. Tàu hủ Nóng aka Hot Tofu Pudding [$0.68 USD]
first, I dig this shot ; )
Sweet dreams are made of…these bowls of creamy bowls of oh, so, soft silken tofu goodness. Hold up. Creamy doesn’t spell it out. It’s not enough to address this matter.
These were warm, luscious spoonfuls of savoring-every-spoonful-is-this-really-happening pleasure. Sweet dreams of nostalgia that I absorbed from a friend, topped with a generous ladle of candied ginger syrup, classic cubes of black grass jelly, and chewy spheres of mochi for an extra bite. A sensation, that’s way better in a ceramic bowl vs. paper cup.
Luscious, dreamy, sensation. That’s the appropriate descriptive trio.
Oh, once more, and I can’t tell you exactly where. That could ruin it. I am sincerely sorry. It’s better this way. I live vicariously of Americans visiting Trader Joe’s for peanut butter pretzels and too much else to start naming.
This is the other way around, darlings. If you find it, you find it! ; )
Location: an un-named street corner in Sơn Trà, Da Nang
4. Mẹt Bún Đậu aka Rice Noodles with Tofu, 35k [small size = $1.33 USD]
I think this was the first time a staff member warned something along the lines of “foreigners do not like these flavors” upon my menu choice.
Reader, I finished my plate.
Learn more of my journey below in regards to funky, fermented & salty brown ‘mắm’ sauce vibes. I was tickled. I was delighted.
I had simply seen a photo of this plate on the google reviews and my mind was made up. I didn’t know much about it. It looked good, and I wanted it for lunch after cycling across neighborhoods. I had an appetite. I would do it again.
Location: Quán Chay Phước Vegan in Hải Châu, Da Nang
5. Bún Chay aka Vegetarian Noodle Soup, 25k [$0.95 cents USD]
Hot! broth, vermicelli noodles, crispy + tasty soy protein-esque topping, tofu, other fake meat-y stuff, big slices of vegetables and 3 types of spicy elements to add to perk the broth up: good-looking fresh chiles + flakes + tableside chili jam. The right, typical QC price. Yes, please. Plus, stopping by on a (another!) busy chay day and still finding a seat. Small, local spot on a side street. One of my more recent go-to eateries. Check, check, checksss.
Location: Quán chay Thiện Tâm in Hoà Cường
6. Bún Mắm (dry), 25k [$0.95 cents USD]
My bún mắm kick continues. Huh, this trend has put the orders of Bánh xèo on temporary hold.
I realize this was the third within a few weeks. Four more bowls of varying degrees of funky Mắm-sauced Bún since this one in early January! Another for lunch at this same exact spot yesterday! A new personal study. Apparently, I’m a fan.
It is interesting to me - as a person/writer/culinary obsessive, ok - that I tried this same dish - at this very same eatery - my very first month in Da Nang. At the time, I didn’t ‘get it’.
Now, I’ve grown more accustomed, and fond of ! so, so many tangs & uh, memorable herbs & piquant flavors of this central, coastal city in Vietnam.
I’m understanding so much more. I’m learning. Yeah, I’m into it.
In other words, another easygoing bowl that hit the spot.
Location: Ẩm thực chay An in Mân Thái / Sơn Trà
Runner - Up, baby: Cà Phê Muối Dừa aka Salted Coconut Coffee
These were enjoyed at the Cafe Pom Pom soft opening. I spent the late afternoon in a mildly caffeinated blur of elusivity and salted, whipped-per-order coconut cream.
The “secret” menu whispered all the right murmurs to pique my interest: Vegan, coconut, salt, coffee, balcony seating, bonus orange cat.
Note to self: Make another reservation for next weekend.
Location: Cafe Pom Pom in Mân Thá/Sơn Trà, Đà Nẵng
Where have * You * been enjoying lunch lately?
Disclaimer: BTW, there were other meals. They weren’t the tops! And that’s okay. That’s normal stuff. And mhm, I continue to visit markets and cook, and cherish my morning routine of coffee, oats & fresh fruit.
In non-conclusion:
I cherish this ongoing opportunity and lifestyle, where I get to habitually try new-to-me, utterly reasonably priced Quan Chays - the local vegetarian spots - every few days.
Revisiting my go-tos, intriguing my palate and culinary curiosity, while, satisfying my appetite on an increasingly, positively productive, pickleballin’ and busy social schedule.
The milder winter temperatures are inching up, with sunnier days coming back. My lunch ordering sways away from hot, brothy bowls, and back to cooler vermicelli noodles & veg…of the funky sauce’d persuasion I swooned about above.
What a habit / what a special place to be / living my life, getting to know these dishes and myself / the unfolding career change / the unexpected ex-pat life on another continent / at this point in time. ♥️ 🧡 ♥️
References + Relevant Links:
A Traveler’s Guide to Tet Holiday, Vietnam.travel
How To Cook Bun Mam With Authentic Flavor + dish history VNiFood 2024
out to lunch, scone archives november 1, 2025
Restaurants + stands mentioned: Ẩm thực chay An, Bánh Mì Chay - Mỹ An stand, Cafe Pom Pom, Quán Chay Phước Vegan, Quán chay Thiện Tâm,
Mỳ Quang noodles have become a national intangible cultural heritage, Vietnam.vn December 26, 2024
my top 10 eats from one big year in vietnam + thailand, these scone-sies january 9, 2026
Top 10+ delicious and tempting hot tofu dessert shops in Saigon, HCM Toplist March 24, 2024
Hi! Did you make it this far down?!
Thank you for reading these serious words & your support of these scone archives!!!
One more thing...
And in super-niche, super-related news for those interested in visiting Da Nang & eating veg & and/or perusing a map of that super-exact focus, this google map of a ton of my favorite local chay eats, grocers, markets, tattoos & more is newly updated.
P.S. Between us pals, I did get feedback that it’s not as easy to save a shared ‘my maps’ thingy, so I will transfer this all to a more user-friendly list. omg. One day. <3
Reservations for coffee! Must be good! Sure looks delicious. And everything looks so fresh and yummm. You are in your element 💫
I’m trying to get on the waitlist for a rez at Cafe Pom Pom — soooo exclusive!