dinner diary bangkok
casual eats + serious notes from one week back in thailand ❤️ 🇹🇭 ❤️
Merry, merry, merrryyyyy from a rainy season holiday week on the central coast of Vietnam!
My first here, and fascinatingly, my third spent solo in SE Asia. What a line.
The first was in Phnom Penh, Cambodia in 2011. I can picture a cute toddler crawling across a city square in a tiny Santa costume for family photos. The second was bittersweet. Last year in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Eating housemade tagliatelle by a Thai chef who’d trained in Italy at his restaurant, the week before it was set to close. That duo of saucey pasta and raw emotions.
This end-of-year, I’m settling back into real (real-er) life after a colorful, captivating, curious, and oh, yes, curry-centric week in Bangkok.
Such perks:
Reuniting with my brother.
Revamping my suitcase wardrobe and light carry-on bag with a trio of second-hand blouses, a stop at Sakura Warehouse, and SAY HAI for less-than-a-dollar store shiny hair clips. Frugal glee.
Picking up a few favorite Thai ingredients to add to my new kitchen panry.
And then, whoa, came the holidays.
I experienced this return to Thailand with less nostalgia and eagerness - from the contrast of how and where I get to live - not too far away.
There was more curiosity, appetite, and matured appreciation.
Yet, different, as someone not returning after years away, with those daydreams of increasingly fond memories.
Now, as someone on a very-budget-minded visa run-meets-whirlwind-family-vacation.
Overall, the week held more ease than the ‘vacations’ of a decade past, and as much interest.
Short Thai phrases and numbers floated back into my vocabulary. And curries were in my bowl, baby.
Here’s What + Where I ate in Bangkok - December 2025
11 Recommendations + Notes
[not a ranked order!!!]
1. Rabiengboon at MBK Center [6th floor food court], happycow listing
This was the second vegetarian mall food court stall I’d ever tried, behind the one up in Terminal 21 in its first year open! Rabiengboon is conveniently a spot I return to for fairly priced, flavor-packed, ready-to-go Thai food. Years back, I was fond of a nearby, since-closed, private room hostel/guesthouse that took over a floor of the Siam Design Hotel by the National Stadium BTS stop. It was so nice. The kind of find you can’t believe exists.
Heading up to the 6th floor of MBK was as close as you could get for a quick, low cost dinner. Pictured below, this repeat order of Pad Prik Khing Soy Protein and Long Beans was so, so good and exactly what I was looking for. I still am. I even had my brother and his fiancée try a bite each and declare it “spicy” on their first day! Whoa. A must-visit, for me.
2. El Santo at Novotel Sukhumvit google maps link
I would begin to say I can’t believe that I went out with my little brother and his (Mexican American) fiancée to a ‘nice” taqueria in Bangkok for jackfruit sopes - De Verdad - however, Me Lo Creo. I believe it all. Their favorite part? The cocktails.
And while my cacao margarita was the best part of my meal, too, it was really…their precious company that made the night. We were basically meeting up in Brooklyn. They humored me, I humored them. That’s family.
Also, how is my shabby Spanish better than his? Dios Mio. That’s saying so much, and so little. : )
3. Jodd Fairs Night Market at Ratchada/Bangkok Art and Culture Center, tripadvisor listing
My siblings have memories of going here - or intending to go here - on a trip that I was almost shockingly not a part of. I was living in Portland, I think, and then, catsitting for my sister in Bushwick at the time. Opportunistic family history.
Like many, many night markets and street food areas in larger cities, Jodd Fairs has been recently renovated and now comes with a braned shine. It gets a mention as the sole, scooped coconut ice cream experience of the week. A full-on, served-in-the coconut shell treat.
Only missing an espresso on the side for the evening affogato indulgence. And believe me, we looked.
Rest assure, the visiting couple shared a couple of savory Thai dishes for their own dinner.
Plus, I picked up a jibbitz for my knock-off crocs that says “Read Good Books”. Another life mantra.
4. Talalaks x 2: Talalaks at Siam Paragon + Talalaks at the Emporium
[lower level food court; 4th floor food court] website
I first visited Talalak’s back in May, and it was an instant habit.
The experience was by happenstance, and not somewhere anyone I know had ever mentioned to me. It wasn’t on some big vegan travel list, where people chant “Veganarie” and “Broccoli Revolution” on a loop.
The price was right, the food was hot, and in a surprise to no one that knows me, I was getting down with Thai-’talian fusion. I went a few times six months ago, and repeated the ease and delight this December.
I opted for Thai Basil Spicy Spaghetti twice, (80 baht AKA $2.57 USD, which after months in Vietnam feels wild), Stir-Fried Crispy Pork in curry paste, Pad See Ew, and tried prepared curry dishes with rice.
The first two are the stand-outs, as is the memory of the Green Curry Spaghetti I didn’t have a chance/room to repeat. Yet. Opt for that crispy pork belly stuff if you’re down! I am such a fan.
Let’s be real: I’ve gone to ‘nicer’ sit-down vegetarian restaurants that people “rave about” that charge more for these same dishes, and do not hit the notes that Talalak’s totally does.
And! Between us, Talalak’s is wayyyyy better than three other un-mentioned veggie mall stands I tried in May and December
Darlings, we are now getting to the good stuff.
5. Chalawan Vegetarian at the Silom Food Market, g maps listing
Listen closely.
On the second-to-last day of this fortunate, scrappy week in Bangkok I had the screaming-inside-in-a-good-way pleasure of getting an early lunch from this traditional, yellow-flag adorned jay stall inside the Silom Market. I had booked my private capsule lodging nearby and didn’t realize it was closed on the weekend, hence the day. That’s a reality of life, time and travel.
The point is, Chalawan’s was exactly the type of meal I had been wanting all week long.
Those spicy/salty/sour/sweet Thai flavors that just shake you a bit inside. The jay stall goodness. The greatness.
50 baht ($1.60 USD) and easily, the most vibrant AND lowest price plate of the week.
Naturally, I went for one more meal the following day, before my flight out that evening.
6. Chamlong’s at the Chatuchak Vegetarian Society, happycow listing
Chamlong’s is a large Buddhist/jay food hall that I’ve been visiting for over a decade. You pay with paper coupons from the cashier, and just like the plastic card counter at the mall, you get back what you don’t spend afterwards. As for the food, it continues to be as good as I remember. This does not usually happen.
My go-to order is the Khanom Jeem, a vegetarian version of fermented rice noodles topped with spicy (of course) curry and fresh herbs.
I like to add a side of skewed satay or something(s) fried, pick up other little treats to-go, and okay, sure, fill up a shopping basket of pantry goods and other things that catch my eye from the attached foundation store.
This time around, that included a vegetable-based mangosteen soap as my little ‘treat’, and years ago, it was this fabulously purple, natural-ish butterfly pea shampoo and conditioner.
As a person and food writer, I don’t use the word ‘authentic’ much. I’ll add it here. It’s a special environment.
7. Eat Me Veggie & Vegan in Bang Rak, g maps listing
Well, when I realized the jay buffet stalls I’d bookmarked around my second lodging location were closed for the weekend, I took to walking closer into Bang Rak. This was the ‘homier’ of the other two spots I’d noted, and after strolling by the other, I stand by my choice.
It’s the kind of cozy, family-run spot where you walk through the small kitchen and past a hot wok being tossed to get to the bathroom (where there’s toilet paper!) and there’s a cute toddler making eyes at you from behind the counter. Don’t fret, her slightly older brother is watching her, and taking orders. I say this matter-of-factly, as someone who was also raised behind a cash register at a dollar store. It got into my blood.
Back to my table at Eat Me Veggie & Vegan. I quickly devoured my red curry long beans and tofu, while giving a nod to another moment in travel time: What I took as a mid-twenties European woman, who sat down directly across from me, order her own vegetarian lunch, and start writing in a journal. I can relate.
Bottom line, this wasn’t a must-go and wouldn’t remain on my list unless I was nearby, howev, it hit the spot and I do enjoy the dish-by-dish menu photos.
[Pssst: do take the following write-up with a big grain of salt and gold spoon for cost analysis perspective and absurdist humor]
8. V Street at Emsphere, fb page
The story is that when a friend passionately encourages me to visit Western vegan restaurants/bakeries in the Bangkok malls, I almost consider it, and the closest I can get is a very well-reviewed spot with a predominately Thai “high street food” focused menu in a yet another fancified food hall.
Because a) my vegan Western standards are high from where I’ve lived & learned to cook & easily underwhelmed. Been there / done that / rarely satisfied. It’s not what I’m seeking out. I want Thai! - and - b) I’m allergic to treenuts, sooooo, that rules out most nondairy desserts AND so many sweets simply don’t appeal to me, aesthetically.
More on what confections do shortly. Oh, it’s on the list.
While it took me quite the detective work to find the V Street location amongst all the shiny others (I was zooming in on photos trying to find their more-identifiable neighbors! doing laps!!), the massive Emsphere itself is conveniently located between Phrom Pong and Asok BTS stations.
Furthermore, this vegan eatery took cards, had a stream of eager customers, and in the end, exceeded my expectations….as ridiculous as it was to pay three times as much as my average meals elsewhere (which granted, were under $3 USD), use gold cutlery, look across at a Gordon Ramsey wine bar and signs for the IKEA upstairs.
And don’t get me started on all the seemingly lonely white boys eating around me.
That said, I calmly reminded myself that I budgeted in one solo meal “splurge” to consider this a vacation. Sorta. How fantastical that I didn’t go for my anticipated Ethiopian, pizza or dosas, and opted for Keemao Crispy Noodles IN A MALL.
The price was 240 baht AKA $8 USD AKA the price of the nauseating ATM fee in Bangkok!!
So, that was my ultimate reasoning, when I really did not want to withdraw again. Another lesson learned.
Back to the food. That I liked!
Okay, I wouldn’t say they were crispy, though the noodles were deliciously charred, the green peppercorns were poppin’, the veg were colorful, and there was more than one layer of heat in temperature and uh, temperament (spice).
To amusingly quote myself - because it’s easy to do when you type out so much on Whatsapp - I excitedly told a friend afterwards about this wild adventure in my Bangkok eating, and that it was akin to eating “really, really good Thai food in Portland or Brooklyn. The kind of meal that makes you remember how good Thai food IN Thailand can be”.
Take that review as you may. It was good! It was small! Yeah, yeah.
9. Assorted Thai Desserts
What I missed the most?? If I see coconut sweets that look good and/or are being freshly made, I am stopping. I puffy heart creamy, sweet and salty coconut anything and everything. Sigh. I’ll now let the photos speak for themselves. And my memories.
Have you tried any of these traditional Thai desserts? Are you a fan?
10. Hot Fried Tofu vendor at Wang Lang Market, market fb page
OMG, this took me back to riding my bike through Santitham and stopping for fried tofu + sweet & tangy dip with crushed peanuts at the Siri Wattana Market during my time in Chiang Mai.
This particular afternoon, I was hungry, I saw tofu, I ordered tofu tofu, and OK’d the sauce being drizzled directly on. I snacked, I walked, I was satiated. I no longer minded stopping for lunch on time.
Hi, I’m vegan and in Asia. It’s a win-win tofu lifestyle and bonus points for taking the river transit to + fro Wang Lang.
We’re heeeeere. The last one on the list is a solid choice.
11. 7-Eleven
Hi, did you know 7-Eleven is omnipresent throughout much of Thailand?
This is not the 7-Eleven in the States. Oh, no. This a way of life in Thailand.
You want a few minutes of air conditioning to beat the humidity, a cold drink, interesting chips, a week’s worth of mascara, a steamed bun and a tiny bottle of soy sauce or chili sauce? Stop on in. Personally, my picks are perpetually the super-carbonated Thai glass bottles of soda waters, Thai Vitamilk soymilk in Double Chocolate or the new Taiwanese Brown Sugar Milk Tea varieties to go in my morning instant coffees, Sweet Basil Lay’s (which actually have a bit of chili AND just came back for a special edition run!!), and the ETE Boran-style black sticky rice, taro and coconut ice cream bars.
Girl, that last one is one of my favorite treat flavors of all time. I had 2 or 3 that week! A word of gentle warning: You don’t see this flavor in all freezers.
Trust me on that one. On all of these.
In non-conclusion…
❤️ 🇹🇭 ❤️
If there were THREE PLACES + things I might insist you try in Bangkok they would be:
Go to a jay market stall, such as Chalawan’s or Chamlong’s for legit, traditional Thai food.
Go to the mall: Specifically, experience the ease of Talalak’s for a stir-fried dish or spicy/curried spaghetti.
Get Thai dessert: Khanom thuai…or Khanom krok…or Khanom tom…or fine, mango sticky rice even if it’s not in season right now. ; )
P.S. drink a cold Singha/Rock or Leo soda water for me. Two. <3
So!
How do you feel about Thai-Italian style spaghetti in a mall food court?
Would you try it?
Disclaimer: Hi, hi. These are not the only places I dined during this time in Bangkok. Pish, posh, I cut the ones I wouldn’t visit again. 😎
References + Relevant Links:
The mall food: Rabiengboon @ MBK, Talalaks at Siam Paragon + Emporium and V Street at Empshere
The jay eateries: Eat Me Veggie & Vegan, Chamlong’s, Chalawan’s at Silom Food Market
The sweet spots: Silom Food Market, Lotus Sukhumvit 50 (lower level), Yaowart Rd/Chinatown, Wang Lang Market to name a few
Part I: bangkok coffee talk, these scone archives december 15, 2022
let’s go to the mall for green curry, scone archives may 22, 2025
List of Thai desserts and snacks, Wikipedia
Vegan Restaurants in Bangkok, HappyCow
Hey, do you ever travel + eat veg? Let’s be friends on happycow? <3
Thank for all for reading these scone archives! End of year edition!
I’m aiming to share one more missive before the New Year with the living-in-Vietnam twist on homemade pandan, coconut & cocoa kahlua liqueur.
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Consider pledging a one-time cup of coffee <3.
You are the ultimate tour guide! Delicious! (Also, those handmade clips) Merry 2 Days after Christmas 🎄 Jess!
Wowowowowow I’m only in Bangkok for a few days upon arrival in Thailand, but this list makes me think I need to add a stop back through there before (eventually) heading back to the US!! This really could not have come at a better time ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️