the chiang mai report
seriously recommended eats + drinks + gems from my period in Chiang Mai, Thailand
Welcome back to the scone archives and dare I pointedly promise, to a rather more cohesive missive than usual.
So. I was recently sharing a few favorite spots & raves from my time in Chiang Mai with two dear, devoted pickleball colleagues moving on that way, and it reminded me that OF COURSE, I had a substack draft with honest-to-goodness notes to polish up.
What a pointed opportunity to write a travel report that’s a bit less stream of consciousness - frankly, less emotional (no apologies!) & more intentional - and depending on your current heat tolerance, far more digestible for the Chiang Mai-curious.
As you may (or may not yet…) know, at the end of last year, I had a big “life change”, packed a giant suitcase, and spent the months of December, January and the start of February in Chiang Mai, Thailand.
Chiang Mai is the second largest city in the country, and long-considered an international tourist destination, renowned for its striking temples and pagodas, its iconic Old City walls, the richly historic & flavorful Northern Thai cuisine: Hellooo//Sawadee kaa Khao Soi to start with the big one, happening markets any time of the day, and close access to cooling & scenic mountains, waterfalls & inspiring, contemplative elephant sanctuaries.
I’m fortunate to say that I’ve visited the city a few times since 2011, soooo, in a time of personal confusion/upheaval, it stood out as the right place to hit pause, and prepare to re-start. I knew it just enough, and the memory of cool cafes and the immersive, captivating spices of a really, really, really good curry were something that stayed with me.
‘Cause, you never quite find those flavors outside of Thailand. You can get close, and I’ve gotten closer on occasion at “legit” spots that are offering more “authentic” regional dishes in Portland & Brooklyn, but nothing quite compares to duh, eating fan-tas-tic, super hot & welcoming salty, spicy, saucey, sour, sweet Thai food IN THAILAND. 🇹🇭
The Khao Sois. The crisp, yet pillow-y, just-fried tofu. The casual search for perfectly hot and deliciously filled spring rolls. All things noodles. All the curry splashing onto my blouse. No regrets there. The bike rides to the jay buffets that hit-the-spot. Ordering a bowl of Khao Soi or Yen Ta Fu from a giant pot before it was out for the day. The ease of listening to live acoustic music all over the place, and appreciating Beatles covers in a lovely mix of English peppered with Thai. Sitting with my crosswords, a cold Chang, and watching life unfold around me.
And oh, my gosh, the sheer delight of biting into those multi-colored, coconut-y balls of Khanom Tom, bursting with their caramelized palm sugar filling. Ditto to warm Kanom Babin “pancakes”: chewy rice flour treats packed with sweet shreds of young coconut. Then, let me echo the “oh, gosh” when I think about irresistibly orange steamed pumpkin (kabocha), creamy bananas, some salty + sweet coconut milk…and any & everything fresh fruit…red dragonfruit, white dragonfruit, lychee, mangosteen, mango, pineapple, papaya…I’ll stop there. For now.
And then, picture You/Me just sitting still for a few minutes, digging into some requisite mango sticky rice or, cooling off, and savoring a cup of coconut ice cream aka I-Tim Katee, topped with crispy, curious toasted mung beans. Whether you’re (wait, we?) down a side street or in front of a trendy coffeeshop in Nimman - it’s a good time.
With that. To the points again.
Here’s my Top Eats + Drinks of Chiang Mai, Thailand as a longtime vegan and coffeeshop enthusiast.
The Seriously Top Faves - Eats
Ming Kwan 💫 Rachadamnoen /Old City omg, go for the vegan khao soi as many times as possible. You’re welcome.
29 Coffties 💫 new location - such admirably fresh produce while keeping serious Thai curry paste & generous aromatics, run by a single mom & her son. Easily my most-visited and favorite spot in the city.
MindTofu 💫 Jing Jai Saturday Market - I love this stand for fried tofu, taro & spring rolls with a sweet & spicy crushed peanut dipping sauce, just getting ready to make haste and find somewhere to sit.
IM Jai 💫 MAYA mall versatile offerings of vegan Thai food that’s prepared healthier than most, and in a way I appreciate, which includes collards/kale you can order heaped onto your plate of green curry & stir-fried pumpkin w/ Thai basil & brown rice. Really sweet sibling operators, too : )
Green Food 💫 Kalare Night Bazaar it is flabbergasting HOW GOOD this stand is! It’s not at the type of night market I ever want to go to, and yet…I do, for their assorted plates of crunchy/fresh/tasty delights, including fabulous tea leaf and banana blossom salads.
The Somewhat Regular Spots - Eats
Garden to Table 🔹 Ratchapakhinai Rd / Old City Darlings, I’ve tried a lot of vegan food within the Old City and while this is a “normie” place, it’s popular with a line out its door for well-deserved reasons (and much better than the veggie place next door that’s also popular, btw). The produce is genuinely farm-to-table from their organic family farm just outside the city, and the recipes are passed down from the grandmother. Bonus points for intriguing textural incorporation of konjac noodles in the still-deeply-flavored vegan-take on Khao Soi, a low use of sugar, house roasted chili paste that rocks, and intriguing, edible, fern-like greens that I hadn’t ever experienced before. Worth the wait, especially if you’re with non-veg-heads. It was the only restaurant I absolutely insisted my sister try when she came to visit me for two weeks.
V Secret Vegan 🔹 Phaploen Market Look, if you make it to this particular market in the “Night Bazaar” area - which is pretty chill for a night market and has a lot of options and space to walk around in - this is where I’d say to go (assuming you want vegan food, duh). Everything I’ve tried from this stand has been quite good, and it was way easier to find a table here vs. others markets. Live entertainment, too. Pumpkin curry, “drunken noodles” with fresh green peppercorn, pomelo salads - yum.
Jay Mai Jumjay Payod 🔹 Chang Phueak I stayed around here for some time in more than one rental, and it became a right of passage for a hot, casual dinner of Shan/Thai food. Have you had Shan (chickpea) tofu? You can order it fried or as-is here, and it’s quite interesting, especially covered in herbs & a tasty sauce. And when in doubt, my order here was totally papaya salad + spring rolls.
Srifaa’s 🔹 Chang Phueak A tiny family-run spot that my sister and I had a bit of a love/not-quite-hate/OK, let’s go relationship with. It was always an…experience. Good, solid dishes. Order a few things! Vegan-friendly, hence the routine. It’s located by a long open-air street market for bonus fresh fruit to take home for the morning, too.
Papaya smoothies 🔹 Chiang Mai Gate Market Once a week, baby. And never did fall out of my bike basket!
Mango sticky rice 🔹 any & everywhere Change “once a week” to every few days. Come, on. Pick up a container and take it back to your room. You’ll thank yourself later. You’ll thank Thailand. I do sorta regret not trying durian sticky rice. I wasn’t there yet.
Enjoy & watch your spice & sweet & plastic tolerances shift…in mostly good ways. <3
The Drinks + Coffee
BAR NOT FOUND ✨ Santitham Dude, so cool, retro & Pantene color-themed cocktail bar. The ‘chartreuse’ was hands down the best cocktail I sipped in the city (and since then…and years before).
Roastinyom(s) ✨ CMU + Chang Phueak A staples for the routine coffee drinker/digital worker with multiple locations, and bonus points for both oat/soy and the irresistible young coconut coffee that stuck with me so much I made a take on it for Sharing Kitchen Lives last month !
Street Coffee Crew Hi, watch a 42-year old American woman pretend she’s fitting in amongst Thai hipsters. JK, I was not the only one. Listen to American hiphop from a live DJ while you sip your iced latte. Oh, and lest I forget, my sister caught me featured in one of their Instagram stories and watching it, I just felt more comfortable about my life *and* the vintage green strawberry -pattered top I decided to wear that day. : D
EM16 bar ✨ Tambon Si Phum Once again, so chill. Enjoy the live music, enjoy the west moat/wall traffic, enjoy your big beer.
8 Days a Week cafe ✨ Suthep A Beatles-themed cafe I’d stop by for iced orange Americanos & some calming time with my book or notebook & pen.
Koff & Things coffeeshop ✨ by the south wall/Chiang Mai Gate market The first Chiang Mai cafe I found myself getting cozy in. Rather Japanese/vintage/wooden vibes. I’d return every few weeks.
Sapphic Riot [queer/lesbian bar] ✨ Old City Open to all, though especially for those looking for a rad, inclusive space and neat cocktails with Thai spirits. Indoor/outdoor seating and special events from time to time.
Thor-Phan Coffee Roaster ✨ Intrawarorot Rd, Old City Legit, hip roaster/cafe with regional beans, and next to a great fried tofu shop. Check-marks. I picked up freshly ground beans here to take with me to my volunteer role in far-off Western Thailand next, thank goodness.
Toffee Roasters ✨ Nimman Well, “everyone” who “looooves” coffee will tell you to go there, and fine, they’re not wrong.
The Others + Honorable Mentions
Siri Wattana Market ✔️ Chang Phueak Open every single day and has so much going on! I’d usually realize I wanted Thai basil, pick up a bunch, and some freshly fried tofu, too. Can’t resist.
Saturday Organic Farmers Market ✔️ Jing Jai Market Ah, I was cooking again & these produce stands inside the “JJ” market were a highlight of my week. I’d get veg, stop by Mindtofu as mentioned above, order something cold to drink, and have a pleasant afternoon.
Lalarb.Laloung ✔️ Chang Phueak Wayyyyy cool - Northern Thai cuisine goes scenester/hip. Very meat-focused though made seriously good green sides + sticky rice both times I went with my sister, who looooved it - it was even her choice for her “last meal” in town. That’s BIG. Great regional beer/drinks selection, friendly staff, soundtrack & live DJ.
Monday Evening Fresh Market ✔️ Chang Phueak This one became a dear part of my weekly routine. I’m glad I stayed nearby for so much of my time in CM. Fresh veg from the neighboring areas (and hilltribes), hot Shan tofu, big smiles.
Ming Zhen ✔️ CMU vegetarian/jay lunch spot that I didn’t try until my final few days - and was a big fan. It gets busy since it’s directly across from the University, so go right before or after prime lunch times if you’re flex.
+ second-hand shopping ✔ ️ various Do you reallllllly want to know? Oh, this was a fun hobby for someone wearing the same clothes for weeks, that became months! My go-to’s were Tiger Second-Hand - multiple locations, Toro & the stores on Tambon Si Phum, the hipster clothing night market on Huay Kaew Rd, more up by Chiang Mai University, and the massive, bring-your-water-bottle Japanese thrift warehouses located south of the main city- look up “Hungjang” - and then walk around the complex and stay hyrdrated. I pretty much picked up a whole new-to-me wardrobe - including retro heels! My sister went home with even more!!
A few more shout-outs: Summerry Tattoo, Thuggy Studio, Meat Zero Plant-Based Crispy “Pork”, Hannah Organic in the Old City (it’s legal!), ETE Black Sticky Rice, Coconut & Taro popsicles from 7/11, J. Imboon Vegan/Buddhist Jay Store, Adirak Pizza for that sourdough crust, & the super hip Cutting Series - Hair & Color.
What’s *your* favorite Thai dish?
Have you had the pleasure of eating Thai food….in Thailand…yet?!?
P.S. from my heart/head…
For those new - and those who’ve come to note the twists & turns my life has taken from the remote “long winter years” in the mountains of Alaska & Wyoming - and I knooooow, in fond awe, that some of you even go back to the super vegan-y Portland years - to what’s now jess’ not-so-wild (?!) 9th month in SE Asia - well, hey, there.
I seriously thank y’all for the continued reads - due to what I take as a mix of intrigue / bewilderment / concern / vicarious drama & culinary entertainment.
I feel the support in the uh, opens & comments, truly. 💙
Deep breaths.
Yeah, yeah, after nearly 5 years of writing these archives, I’m getting ready to finally launch ‘subscriptions’ (the whole reason a friend said I should start a substack way back when), and well, nothing’s gonna change besides a little more gossip, a few more DIY recipes and an optional “upgrade” to support this time to write. It’s been a long time coming. Recently, I realized that throughout my entire “career”, I always circle back, to talking about food.
Cheers, boos.
P.S. Have a question about any specific business or dish or area to visit? Say the word.
thank you kindly for the share @Holly Coppedge!!!!! aw, shucks
Jess, I saved this. I’m keeping it for a weekend read at the botanical garden. 🤍