scoop there it is
the flavors from my D-I-Y ice cream summer
I’m looking through my camera roll the other day, and it hits me. I’m having an ice cream summer. How typical?
Okay, then another a-ha arrives, as I take in the autumnal reds on the strawberry plants and drying florals around me. The green and the golds getting ready to twist & turn into stark whites & browns. That summer, it’s heading out. It already left? Wait, was it ever really here? How existential. And yet…
This high elevation life cued a shorter summer than our years in the subarctic. Really, stories for another day - ‘cause that long winter we know increasingly well is around the corner. All that time to hole up, reflect & write with the woodstove going returns soon enough. “Winter is coming”, as per that big deal show I may watch one day. Shrug, mayhaps.
How’s it looking in your neck of the woods? (forests not required for a reply)
It’s said (by Alaskans themselves, mind you, and who knows better? Well, not many in the upper echelons of AK state government in recent years, I’ll go that far) that Alaskans LOVE ice cream more than any other states’ residents, and as someone with five years in the subarctic to my credit who grew up increasingly endeared to so many things counter culture (see also: being a young vegetarian, only eating white pizza, and identifying increasingly non-religious as a catholic school kid) who already thought that ice cream really was better in the winter, I get it. It fits.
It’s practically rebelling, seasonally speaking, which goes with that uh, independent Alaskan spirit.
On top of that, while summer in Alaska may be short, the days themselves are long and the sunset is late, which means there’s both way less and far more time to enjoy your ice cream of choice. And if you’ve ever been to farmers market stand-turned-brick & mortar Wild Scoops in Anchorage as a tourist or 49th-er or whatev, you know they deliver on their reputation of whimscical, wild and and classic flavors. You get it, year round. Literally. The line is worth the wait for fireweed, sitka swirl, rhubarb crumble, wild blueberry, alaskan birch almond, white raven and the *vegan* bear hug flavors, just to name a few. Swoony memories.
These days, I make my own ice cream. Go figure.
Wait, why? Come on, now. I’ve been on the vegan persuasion for nearly 20 years, and the past four-ish of those of have included the ownership of a Cuisinart ice cream maker [fyi, a somewhat older model of this one and this is so not an affiliate link]. And to further note my not-so-little (*everything* matters) connected backstory, it was a gift I received while living in Alaska. I’d say full circle, but, I like to think I’m halfway there. Ish.
The ice cream maker and I (and the cats & spouse & a few other precious ‘things’) have been making more ice cream right here in a corner of Wyoming than I saw happening. What a weird dream come true. It’s been downright inspired - and social, having people around this past summer to eat said ice creams and all.
Soooo….why do I make my own ice cream? Again, the obvs: my kitchen is dairy-free. I’m also, mildly annoyingly, mildly allergic to treenuts, and those ‘creamy’ cashews are the base of many mainstream vegan ice creams these days. Other brands: eh, they used to be better. They used to be under better companies. The produce line grows immensely, and while the reach (and profit) grows, quite often, the product is not so great anymore. What else is new?
I like to cook. I like to bake. I like to play around with flavors. Therefore, I like to make ice cream. Years (& years) ago, an old friend shared a homemade batch of ‘chick-o-stick’ vegan ice cream, and it really stuck with me. I basically learned that anything was possible.
(And in related memories, another never-old friend and I once made a shaker of ‘chick-o-stick’ martinis in my mid-20s, a la an espresso martini? Which are apparently making a comeback?
And for those unfamiliar, retro ‘chick-o-sticks’ are reminiscent of (and likely pre-date) the “Butterfinger”. Don’t have a cow, man.
Because, thinking back even further, peanut butter froyo was my go-to flavor in my college years. Helloooo, I was a very young woman and it was the first few years of the 2000s diet culture and faux feminism was layered, and not in the ways of fudge swirls. I’m talking low-fat, low-cal, oh my god, it doesn’t really taste like anything swirls.
And dialing it back on that landline, mint chocolate chip ice cream with peanut butter sauce was my *jam* well into my feisty teenage years. No, I was not high. I was at Friendly’s! No one ever said I couldn’t order that daring combo!)
Oh, oh, and let’s not forget the requisite reality: I live in the middle of “nowhere”, even during the months we can drive a car. If we’re getting groceries, they’re vegetables. Not storebought, mass-produced, disposable containers of vegan ice cream! We’re not in Portland anymore, Toto.
This past spring-come-summer has seen me rock out four rounds of anything-I-want flavors at jess’ remote ice creamery: Whiskey Vanilla, Pumpkin Spice Latte with pumpkin purée, the namesake spice mix and shots of espresso incorporated, “Pancake” with chopped up bits of Dutch stroopwafel (thanks to The Stroop Club out of Austin, via Yough! in Bushwick) and last but totally not least, Matcha White Chocolate. What A. Blast.
In lieu of an egg-centric custard, all four of these flavors work with a base of coconut cream and/or coconut milk. The second two were for a house party earlier this month where everything revolved around the letter “P” - because, long story of inspired/charming thematics aside, a gathering on a porch and a new-to-me thrifted punch bowl set were only just the beginning of a menu.
The fourth flavor of Matcha White Chocolate, brought to a DIY sushi night, proved to be the “biggest seller” of the quartet. I’ve gathered intel, and here’s why I think it was such a hit: 1) some people simply really really really love green tea desserts and 2) the ‘white chocolate’ mention comes from the addition of melted cocoa butter into the base, a la the Van Leeuwen vegan ice cream base. Aka this one was super rich and super good. That’s ice cream. Also, these little packets of Trader Joe’s matcha green tea powder are pretty dang fabulous for incorporating into treats. Thank goodness for that quick foray into Denver + TJ’s last month.
The first three I mentioned were generously and flamboyantly, if I may (oh, I will), spun off from the Salt & Straw’s vegan ice cream recipe. Let’s just say I don’t think I’ve ever owned generic “pancake syrup” prior to this summer, and that its corn syrup-y make-up and late night diner vibe was poifect for what I had in mind…
And might I add, I now have a revolving bowl of homemade “ice cream archives” in the freezer, ever-ready for the next crisp or pie.
Live a little, people. Eat from-scratch desserts!
Notes on the Matcha + White Chocolate recipe follow:
Next up: A seriously creamy oatmilk base? A batch of truly handcrafted Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter Cup (in which, of course, the base is peanut butter, too)? A more-than-decent, food safe metal, thrifted ice cream scoop?? I’m coming for you three, sooner or later.
What’s your achievable-dream ice cream flavor?
References + Relevant Links:
Ben Van Leeuwen’s Pro Tips for Better Vegan Ice Cream, The Kitchn
Even in the darkest days, Alaskans claim they’re more obsessed with ice cream than any other state, MIC July 13, 2017
Chick-O-Stick History, SNACK HISTORY
The Oatly Controversy Explained, VICE September 1, 2020
RECIPE: Vegan Cinnamon Snickerdoodle Ice Cream, Salt & Straw
RECIPE: Vegan Peanut Butter and Chocolate Chip Ice Cream a la Van Leeuwen via SAVEUR
SCOOP! There It Is ice cream cart in Gardiner, MT ~ why, the source of my subtitle’s thematic play on words
Take a Never-Dark Summer Road Trip Through Alaska, THRILLIST May 24, 2023
This is such a fun piece!! Deeply impressed. My anti-snob take is that I'm more into WooHoo than Wild Scoops in terms of Anchorage ice cream.... whoops
“Ice Cream Winter” is my thing, Jess ❄️ don’t know why!